Saturday, March 24, 2012

No Such Thing as a Low-Maintenance Garden?

BALONEY!
This apparently is the consensus between unknowing 'garden snobs' as I read it in The Scoop(?I dont remember?).  In reality it's actually no such thing as a NO-maintenance garden.

There are quite a few ways to have a more or less low maintenance garden, you just have to do a lot of research first.  

If you want the easiest way pass by until you get to the link at the bottom.




It all starts with the soil.  Have your soil tested to see if it's missing something, and what type it is.  You can also do the ribbon test. The three main types are clay, sand, and loam.

  • Clay soil retains moisture and organic matter far longer than the others, it also has less air space so some plants have a hard time growing and some tend to get rot in this kind of soil.
  • Sandy soil holds on to moisture, and liquid fertilizer for only a short amount of time, but it is easier for some plants to root in.
  • Loam is considered the happy medium and easiest for most plants.

Plant for your soil type.  Keeping this in mind, the plants will be healthier and happier without much work.  You could try soil amendments if you really wanted to, but eventually the ground will go back to what it originally was.

  • Moisture-loving plants with strong roots, low-no rot potential, and high fertility needs will do awesome in clay.  Some of these are called 'clay busters'.  
  • Plants with tender roots that don't mind poor soils and like it drier will do well in sand.  (ie.Rugosa Rose will actually do well in pure sand!).  
  • The majority of plants will do well in loam, unless they are super picky and want something else.  
  • Plant natives, they know how to deal with it all.

 Sun/Shade?  This is the one most people remember.  It's right there on the tag and it's pretty easy right?  Yes and no.

  • Some plants will go just about every and anywhere.  These are nice because as everything else grows in, your sunny spot might suddenly become very shady.  Makes gardening design much easier.
  • There is more than simple sun/shade.  There's Full Sun, Hot Sun, Part Sun/Shade, Dappled Sun/Shade, Shade, Full Shade, and Deep Shade.  AND IT MOVES!  This is a pain cause if a plant is picky and it's put in the wrong spot it will get thin, leggy and dumb looking.
  • Depending on the location of sun/shade the watering levels change.  Full Sun/Hot Sun need more and Shade/Deep Shade need less, so you have to screw with your watering schedule at least the first year.
Know your friends.  There are a whole bunch of companion plants out there that lend a hand to others where it comes to pest/disease control,even beauty and scent!  (ie.Garlic/Onions and Roses)

  • This step helps to encourage more bio-diversity which also lessens the chance of a huge infestation of pests/diseases.
  • Some plants help by simply attracting our friends the beneficial predator bugs, which eat the bad bugs.  Learn what these guys look like.
  • Look how pretty roses and lavender look together (right).  Lavender helps by confusing the scent of smell for many bugs, plus they look gorgeous in a bouquet together!  Lavender helps a lot inside the house as well.
  • If a problem is bad enough you can also try trap crops, or just plant something else.
Know your enemies.  This can be the Japanese beetles eating your roses, the lovely dandelions cheering up your otherwise perfect bluegrass lawn (I'm a fan of dandelions and hate bluegrass, so I'm biased), or even the powdery mildew epidemic against our beloved impatiens.  If you don't want it there it's a weed.


  • Get a good pest book.  This will help you know who this pest is and the best way to control it.  (No such thing as eradication)
  • Get a hand lens.  Some of those darn buggies are tiny!
  • Do NOT use pesticides unless there is a major problem!  (I know they are an easy way to kill things NOW, but if you put in the work beforehand you shouldn't have to) Once you start using them you can start on a treadmill which will never stop needing pesticides.
  • Don't till if you don't need to.  This can bring up old weed seeds to the surface.  Instead check out Lasagna Gardening.
Plain ole good design.  This is what everything in this article boils down to.  If you put the right plants in the right spot with the right conditions you can't go wrong!  (You might be sad because your plants don't need you much, if so feel free to plant a few princess plants up by your house.)

  • Planting clumps close together makes your garden fill out faster and shades out weeds, no room to grow!
  • I like using a bio-degradable 'landscape fabric', or 5 layers of newspaper.  The weed barrier the newspaper provides gives the plants a head start on any weedy bullies.  When it breaks down it's good for the soil, hence good for the plant.
  • Spend at least 10 minutes a day walking through, day dreaming, and enjoying your work.  This gives you time to notice any tiny problems before they become BIG problems.  Besides... why go through all that work if you are not going to enjoy it?  Then you might as well get plastic flamingos or a maintenance service.
If you keep a lot of this in mind the most work you should have to do is in the wake/clean them up in Spring, and send them to bed in Fall.

Low Maintenance Plants are the easiest if you are just starting out, or don't want to do a bunch of research.  They are flexible and tough plants.  In Minnesota prairie plants and natives are pretty much no-brainers.

  • This list is from the U of MN Extension.  Holy crap it is huge!  
  • I'd check this book out.  I have her perennial gardening book and I really like it.


No comments:

Post a Comment